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Spring Mill Cafe
The Evening Reviewed, by Beth Sheligo |
Taking an all star break in Conshohocken, the group sampled some great summer whites, one red and one very special cordial:
The aperitif, served with pate, was Pommeau De Normandie, Gribouille a Honfleur, and was hand-carried from Normandy by a member. A blend of apple cider and Calvados, this is a traditional local beverage in France. It tasted like a slight nutty apple brandy, though the nose had some nice melon to it. Not too heavy for summer.
Served with the first course: Cold Cucumber Soup, and one of the second course choices: Shrimp Seviche Crème Fraiche:
1997 Pinot Blanc Rosenber, Domaine Barmes-Buecher – Tropical fruit nose, good acidity adding a nice crispness to the slightly green flavors. A nice spicy element to the finish matched the spice in the soup.
1995 Clos Baudoin Vouvray, Prince Poniatowski – Minerals dominate the nose and palate, yet the wine has a nice roundness and pleasant acidity. Not showing much fruit, but a pleasant sip.
1994 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett, Von Hovel – Nose of apples and minerals, very high toned fruit on the palate, crispy apples and a touch of lemon. A slight spritz added a tingle to the tongue, the wine finished clean and slightly tart. Very well made and an enjoyable drink.
1997 Robert Emayel Estate Riesling (Munchoff) This is a Qba Riesling without a designated vineyard, though Munchoff has holdings in Urziger Wurzgarten, Erdener Pralat and Erdener Treppchen. This wine has been on my best buy list since its release. Big, bright nose of apples and peaches, tons of fruit on the palate well balanced by acidity. A very juicy wine that keeps you reaching for the bottle. Nice finish.
Served with the alternate second course: Pate de Campagne
1997 Remelluri Rioja Blanc – a blend of Vigonier and Marsanne – Lots of honeysuckle in the nose, vanilla/lemon citrus flavors with a spicy (nutmeg?) undertone. Full-bodied, very unusual.
1997 Bellieu Beauzeaux (pronounced “Bozo”) – a California red with everything but the kitchen sink thrown in: Zin, Petit Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and a few more I am less familiar with. Good fruit in the nose, on the palate, raspberry, pepper and lots of tannins. Finished hot (13.5% alcohol).
Served with the third course: Sea Bass with Turkish Salsa and Grated Jicama
1988 Durkheimer Nonnegarten Rieslaner Auslese, Darting – Seductive nose of grapefruit and lemongrass, in the mouth, more ripe grapefruit, limes and mango. Unfolding beautifully at least 11 years of age, the wine is still all fruit well balanced by acidity. The finish lingered for a full minute.
1997 Murphy Goode Reserve Fume – Nose of allspice, in the mouth vanilla and pears. A rich, full bodied Sauvignon Blanc. Good value.
Desserts – Apple Tart Tatin with Vanilla Ice Cream, Pears Poached in Red Wine, Angel Food Cake with Coconut Frosting and Assorted Cheeses
1994 Grigrich Hills Violetta Late Harvest Riesling and Chardonnay – Enormous nose of overripe peach and apricots, mouth filling ripe brilliant fruit: lush apricots and tropical fruit flavors. Good acidity, not cloying, with a satisfying long finish. A winner.
1995 Roche Muscat Canneli – A very nice effort. Melon and peaches on the nose, ripe, crisp, very fruity and refreshing in the mouth. A nice restorative for the palate after all that came before. A good summertime quaff for the pool.
Whereupon, we all disappeared into the night for another 6 weeks.
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