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Siri's in Cherry Hill, NJ The Evening Reviewed, by Beth Sheligo |
Cencibel, a group of wine and food matching fans, met last night at Siris, a French Thai BYOB, with the following results:
1994 Gewurztraminer Herrenweg Turkheim, Zind Humbrecht Very open, fragrant aromas of rose petal and lychee that leaps from the glass. Great depth of flavor, lychee and grapefruit that danced in the mouth. Like starting the night off with fireworks.
1994 Gewurztraminer Winzentheim, Zind Humbrecht Less forward than its cousin, a barely restrained, deeply powerful wine. Grapefruit and tropical fruits in the nose. Noticeable residual sugar on the palate, supported by a strong mineral underpinning, and a glimpse of clove spice, all in perfect balance. A persistent finish of ripe fruit.
These 2 wines were matched with Siris Golden Bags, which were crisped wontons, stuffed with crabmeat and shrimp and served in a sweet chili sauce, and a steamed portabella mushroom and leek dumpling, service with a shitake mushroom sauce. The consensus was that the Turkheim worked well with the Portobello, while the Winzentheim accented the chili sauce of the golden bags.
1996 Monthelie Clos Meix Garnier, Domaine Monthelie-Douhairet Ripe sour cherries in the nose; like biting into a sour cherry pie = brilliant fruit flavors that lingered on the tongue. A delight to drink.
1997 Chenin Blanc Viognier, Pine Ridge crisp, light, delightful, a chenin with personality. Well balanced fruit and acidity.
These wines were paired with Grilled Shitake mushrooms served over baby greens tossed with a soy balsamic vinaigrette dressing topped with goat cheese. The grilled mushrooms brought out the earthiness of the Burgundy that was lurking beneath the forward fruit, and set a contrapuntal tone to the goat cheese. The acidity of the chenin blanc was in harmony with the vinaigrette dressing. This course was the most difficult match, and while the wine and food didnt disagree, the pairing was not as cordial as the other courses.
1996 Kreydenweiss Andlau Riesling some banana oil in the nose, good acidity on the palate expressed in lemon citrus tones, complementing a crunchy minerality.
This wine was paired with Macadamia crusted crab cake, drizzled with a fresh creamy herb sauce. The conclusion was that the wine had adequate sweetness to pair with the macademia crust, while the acidity cut through the cream sauce. So successful was this match that all plates were cleaned and the reserve bottle opened.
1992 Margaret River Pinot Noir, Leeuwin Estate Curiosity prompted the opening of this Australian, which, wile past its prime, still resulted in a pleasant surprise. The color is starting to brown at the rim, the nose is raspberry and strawberry, on the palate, rich, mature fruit is balanced by good acidity.
1994 Val DOrbier Reserve St. Martin Merlot Deep garnet color, earthy, minerally nose. Tannic, full-bodied, rustic.
These two wines were paired with oven-roasted crispy duck served with a chambord raspberry glaze. The match here was one of stylistic preference. The earthiness of the merlot was appreciated in conjunction with the duck meat, while the fruitiness of the Pinot Noir echoed the raspberry in the sauce. A harmonious pairing.
1990 Domaine des Aubuisieres Le Marigny Vouvray Moelleux Deep golden color, tropical fruit and honey in the nose. Apple and pear flavors woven with a burnt sugar, crème caramel base that reflected intense botrytis. Good acidity preserved the balance of this viscous nectar, and provided a satisfying length to the finish.
This wine was paired with fresh apple tart baked with almond crème, served with caramel ice cream. An excellent match. The burnt sugar flavors of the wine drew out the caramel flavor of the ice cream, and highlighted the almond crème in the dish. The apples in the tart and the wine sang to each other. Everyone left full and happy.
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