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Porcini's in Philadelphia, PA
The Evening Reviewed, by Beth Sheligo |
A cozy Center City Philadelphia spot to spend the first night of fall. An engaging, enthusiastic staff, great food and good company. Class acts all around. The wines:
NV Farnito Chardonnay Brut, Carpineto – A limited production wine made in the methode champenoise style from hand-picked, select grape clusters. Underripe apple nose, more ripe and rounded in the mouth with a touch of lemony acidity. Oak expressed as an almond quality that finishes slightly bitter and oxidized.
1997 Greco di Tuf, Feudi di Dan Gregorio – Mineral nose, soft, ripe, peach/apricot fruit in the mouth. Some heat in the finish. A pleasant sip that came to life paired with the asparagus torte.
1993 Gewurztraminer, Trimbach – Lychee nose, but lacking freshness; a bit thin in the mouth, with a short, hot finish. On the downhill side of the slope.
1998 santa Margharita Pinot Grigio – Perfumey peach blossom nose, rich ripe melon flavor (Casaba?) with crisp apple. Good acidity, young, lively, spritzy. Great with the goat cheese rollentini.
NV Blanc de Noir, Gloria Ferrer – 80 to 90% Pinot Noir, the balance, Chardonnay. A crisp mouthful of wine. Lovely peach notes underscored by vanilla. Good Mousse. Picked up the parsley in the wild muchroom risotto.
1997 Beringer Founders Estate Chardonnay – Very buttery nose and mouth feel. Predominant impression is rich spice, clove and cinnamon, that lingers on the tongue. An excellent match with the same risotto.
199 Buckingham Riesling, Buckingham Valley Vineyards – A locally produced wine from Bucks County, PA. Green apple nose, crisp apple and peach flavors, slightly frizante. Well balanced, finished clean, light and refreshing.
1997 Raboso Veneto Orientale, Moletto – A frizante treatment of this rustic Italian grape. Nose of raspberry and cherry, very fruity in the mouth with lots of big cherry flavors, just off-dry. Lite tannins, clean finish, with just a kiss of fruit.
1996 Camp Meeting Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir, Flowers – Big, fruity nose of cherries and blueberries. Moderate tannins, beautifully balanced, developed anise and licorice accents in the glass. Smooth finish.
1994 Banzelia Bricco Fiasco Barolo – The wine of the evening, the furthest you can get from ‘fiasco.’ Big, birght mouthful of cherries, that carry through to a peppery, spicey finish. Ripe, rich fruit with great acidity and balance of tannin. A powerful, bold wine.
1993 Brunello di Montalcino, Castella Banfi – Nose somewhat closed, ripe, deep red fruit flavors of plum and cherry with a touch of black pepper. Tannins predominate. Worked well with the rosemary in the veal sauce.
NV Founders Reserve Port, Sandeman – Raisiny nose, ripe, rich flavors of cherries, blackberries and plums. Very smooth, carried its 20% alcohol well. Lovely match with the Marscapone cheese on the pear torte.
Our work for the evening concluded, we evaporated into the rain soaked evening, leaving our trademark trail of broken hearts and empty bottles. |
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