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Overtures * Philadelphia, PA Cencibel's Year 2000 Wine Review by Beth Sheligo |
For our Year 2000 visit to Overtures, we begin with the same champagne we had on our first visit:
1989 Ponsardin, Veuve Cliquot.
Very fine bubbles, toasty nose, creamy mousse, full on the palate, very nice finish.
Peter Lambline, our chef and the owner of this terrific French escape, prepared a special appetizer of generous slices of duck breast topped with piped pate. A wonderful amuse bouche! With this we begin to pour over the menus and pour the white wines:
1994 Chavignol, Le Monts Damnes
Nose begins very spicy, woodsy almost, with an underpinning of flinty minerality and a slight touch of oak. Develped in the glass over a half-hour, to reveal mint, pears, allspice and saffron. An elegant Sauvignon Blanc.
1994 Gaubut, Graves
Very spicy, nice vanilla in the wood. Well balanced, showing apricot fruit as it opens.
1992 Bernard Morey Chassagne Montrachet
Some apple tones in the nose, very nice butterscotch undertones on the palate. Complex, well balanced, the best white match for the oysters (ordered just for Cencibel!) and white wine of the night overall.
1995 Bourgogne A. Rodet, Chardonnay, V.V.
Odd tomatoey nose, very like a V8. Overwhelmed by the oysters, flattened out quickly. Not a great showing.
1999 Jadot Pouilly Fuisse
Crisp, grassy nose, high acidity, clear, bright new-mown-hay kind of youthful Savignon Blanc, but very graceful. Nice. And to think that Lisa Presson wanted to take this one home when it was discovered late in the game! Nice try, Lisa :-)
On to the Red Wines:
1995 Chateau Bourgneuf, Pomerol
A very pretty wine. Good body, nice fruit, well balanced, minerally, with lots of pepper, both green midpalate and black in the finish. Tar, coffee, chocolate, good tannins.
1998 Chateau Cabrieres, Chateauneuf de Papes
Soft and approachable for CDP. Very nice fruit expressed as deep cherry, black pepper, and licorice.
1996 Chateau Larose Trintadon, Haut Medoc
Very tannic. Lots of green pepper, very herbal, almost like mulch with tea and tobacco. Very tight.
1998 Gigondas Cuvee Tradition, Domaine de Espiers
Fruity raspberry and cherry. Fresh, bright and brilliantly dark.
1995 Aloxe Corton, Domaine Louie Latour Anee
Cherry and berry fruit on the nose, with some minerals. Well structured, red marascino cherry flavors, very nice with duck breast.
Using figs hand-picked by a dear friend, Peter delighted the group with a fig tart which was nicely paired with the 1997 Jaboulet Muscat de Beaum de Venize, vin dux naturale
Apricot, pear and honey sugar, some residual almond nuttiness (marzipan?) 15% alchohol.
A good time was had by all and we look forward to the next event!
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