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Chef Max Brody At Mary Frankel's The Evening Reviewed, by Beth Sheligo |
On Tuesday evening, the Cencibel were treated to a delectable five-course meal at the home of a new member, who is wise enough to cultivate a chef as a future son-in-law. Max Brody, 3 days away from graduation at the CIA, did the cooking honors.
We started out with NV Cuvee Brut, Oudinot, which showed clean, good fruit and a hint of toast, with a lemon curd finish, and 1982 Egly-Ourier, with lots of toasty yeast; very full-bodied.
Our first course, Pan Seared Scallops with Osetra Caviar, Lemon Champagne Beurre Blanc, was paired with 1994 Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut, which showed a mild yeast, good weight and a long, spicy finish. 1991 Iron Horse Blanc de Blanc completed the flight in good contrast to the 94: lemony, citrus and tart, with a very nice balance and palate cleansing finish.
Next up, Pumpkin Bisque was paired with 1994 Mersault, Domaine dAngerville, a wonderful wine mismatched with the food. A perfumed nose with hints of licorice. In the mouth, butter and smoky, full-bodied with great balance and a long finish. Better paired were the 1997 Pinot dAlsace, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, a Pinot Blanc which combined the scent and flavors of hard apples and pears with a slightly grassy finish, and 1991 Westhofener Steingrube Albalonga Spatlese, Weingut Gunter Wittmann, which had a nose of cinnamon spice, mint and lavender, flavors of Caribbean spice and figs, and a very long finish.
There was a pause in the action for Red Asian Pear Granita, and then on to Roasted Stuffed Quail with Cornbread, Pecans and Andouille served with 1994 Short Hills Unfiltered Pinot Noir, Navarro, a very full bodied, Burgundian styled wine, with an earth, leather nose, dark cherry fruit, and a spicy, smoky undertone. 1997 Sanford Pinot Noir was an interesting contrast; one taster nailed the nose as barbequed ribs. Ripe Bing cherries mid-palate with eucalyptus in the finish. The last of the flight was 1996 Zaca Mesa Syrah, blended with 20% Viognier, which featured black cherry and raspberry fruit with a tobacco undertone, and a licorice finish that was a tad short, but clean.
The chef ignored our please that we had already overeaten, and ploughed on with Braised Oxtail in Puff Pastry, served with 1975 Talbot Bordeaux, Domaine Cordier, fully mature, with an olive and pimento nose, flavors of tobacco and ash, and a decent length to the finish. 1991 Berringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was huge, rich, spicy, green-pepper cab. Great dark cherry fruit, very tannic, this one still needs time. The surprise QPR of the night was 1997 M. Trinchero Merlot, at $13.00 in the PA state stores and a few $$ less in NJ, this premiere label of Sutter Home had a great cherry vanilla nose, a black cherry, charcoal like complexity in the mouth , and a very smooth finish.
Limping into the slow lane, we were presented with plates of Bette Noir with Raspberry Coulis and Crème Fraiche, served with NV Framboise, Bonny Doon, at 19.4% residual sugar, just under the 20% club cut. This was the whole raspberry only minus the seeds. Wonderfully balanced fruit and acidity, the perfect match to the coulis. 1991 Taylor Fladgate LBV followed, which, once past the alcoholic nose, was the perfect mate to the Bonny Doon, as the predominant flavor was chocolate. Tobacco, plums and dark cherries rounded out the flavors, which finished cleanly.
Groggy, we sat in a stupor while the cheese selection, wedges of Manchengo served with Bosc, Seckle and Anjou Pear slices were set before us. We proceeded with 1998 Poseri Marcarni Muscato dAsti, with a beautiful nose of peach skins, flavors of tangerine and kiwi, and a soft almond and peach finish.
Our finale was a 1991 Vecchioli Liqueur made from a top-secret, ancient family recipe (previously passed only to male members of the family) with coffee. Clear, rich caramel color and resembling sambucca on the nose, smooth and not-too-sweet anise, nutmeg and allspice unfold on the palate. What a wonderful way to top off such an incredible meal!
Thanks to Mary Frankel for hosting this crowd of 17 food and wine enthusiasts. If shes not careful, well be back!
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