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Buhna Faun in Malvern, PA
The Evening Reviewed, by Beth Sheligo |
A lovely evening of food, wine and company.
NV Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut - A yeasty nose and very fine bubbles make the initial impression. Lots of lemon tones on the palate; the wine has good acidity and tension. Some cherry tones were coaxed forth after about 10 minutes. A great starter.
1985 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Kabinett, Les Gallias - Burnished golden color, and a fusil oil nose that takes a little time to blow off. This is a fully mature Kabinett, the fruit toned way down but still in balance with the acidity. It was served with a shrimp appetizer that came with mustard dipping sauce, and was a wonderful match for the mustard. The sauce emphasized the creamy quality of the wine and a slight spiciness in the finish.
1998 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, J.J. Prum - Great contrast to the '85. Youthful, pale yellow/green, big floral nose with an underlayer of blue slate. Petillant in the mouth (a characteristic of the house), nose of just barely ripe apples and peaches, slightly sweet and tangy on the palate with a long finish. Excellent match for the sweet sauce that came with the appetizers.
1998 Trimbach Gewurztraminer - Very floral/lychee nose. Mid palate is all grapefruit and rose petals, with a hint of licorice/anise in the finish. Excellent varietal typicity.
1998 Handley Cellars Chardonnay - Very bright golden color, nose of lemon citrus. On the palate, a bit of lemon and lots of butterscotch. Finishes a bit hot.
1997 Santa Barbara Winery Pinot Noir - Lots of cherries on the nose; this is a very fruit forward wine, with ripe black cherry flavors and a hint of spice on the finish.
1996 Clos Du Pavillion, Domaine Pavillion - Nose of earthy loam and cherry. Flavors of raspberry and cherry with the same earthy underpinning. Best match for the three mushroom cream soup.
1991 Zobringer Heiligenstein Alte Reben Riesling, Willi Brundlmayer - Initial nose of minerals and slate, which opened into violets and lavendar. Dark fruit flavors of raspberry or blackberry, licorice and spice. Lengthy finish. Ethereal match for the trout.
1998 Chadds Ford Niagara - Nose of pure muscadine. Very typical Concord qualities. Decent acidity, finish not cloying; a rather powerful and persistent nose. A tad too sweet for the fish, but not out of line with the sweet sauce which dressed it.
1998 Barmes-Boucher Herrenweg Gewurztraminer - Great nose of lychee and grapefruit; flavors are crisp, clean and brilliant. Young but well integrated, good body, citrus finish. A scene stealer.
1997 Marcel Deiss Pinot Gris Bebelnheim - Darkest hued wine of the flight. Nose of apples and orange peel, spicy attack on the palate, flavors of apricots and peaches. Slightly smoky, clean finish.
1997 Hugel Gentil - Pear and apple nose, mineral and quince flavors, with pear in the finish. Developed a bit of a pimento nose when left to sit out. Excellent balance, declared the QPR wine of the night.
1996 Didier Dageneau Pur Sang Sauvignon Blanc - Very forward and open bouquet of melon, flavors of melon and minerals with a herbaceous quality. Lengthy finish. Well integrated, excellent balance. One of the stars of the evening.
1985 Quady Essencia Orange Muscat - Dark brown/orange color, nose of honey, mead and burnt orange peel. Flavors of dried apricots and orange. Getting on in years; drink up.
1970 Messias Quinta do Cachao Vintage Port - Nose of red fruit and almonds, full flavors of plum, raspberry, and very black cherry with a well rounded nutty quality. Clean, well balanced; very nice finish, both long and pleasing.
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