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The Birchrunville Village Cafe
Review by Deb Denis |
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Birchrunville, PA
610-827-9002
Sandee Raskin, Chairperson |
June 28, 2000
Great French chefs create picture-perfect plates, which offer delicious bites that thrill the palate without inundating the diner. Tonight’s dinner accomplished that and more.
Members and guests of Cencibel gathered at the quaint and historic Birchrunville Café and Store, located deep in God’s country: Birchrunville, Pennsylvania. Situated by a babbling brook, the restored village store building houses not only the café, but the working local post office! Chef Frances Trzeciak, last at restaurant Provence, prepared a very special and memorable menu; Cencibel provided exciting wines to match!
The charming setting and memorable cuisine were complemented by wonderful service provided by a serving staff of three. Cencibel is most appreciative and sincerely thanks Pennell Hopkins, Tara Waldner and Kenny Dorris for their gracious attentiveness to our every desire.
We began with hors d'oeuvres; an elegant combination of color, flavor and texture in each: salmon and seaweed salad en endive; delicate blini with crème fraiche and tiny black pearls of caviar; and (I only saw this one) perfectly sized bacon-wrapped morsels.
Wonderfully balanced and delicious champagne was shared with the group by the men’s table. Thanks guys, for being prepared and for sharing! Next, two bottles of 1986 Sonoma-Cutrer Les Perrieres chardonnay appeared and were served. As their contributor surmised, there was some bottle variation; one showed more age than the other. This taster’s notes: golden color with a smoke and mineral nose reminiscent of Burgundy. Rich wood-wrapped citrus mid-palate fades to reveal ripe pear fruit.
Picture perfect plates, too lovely to eat (but of course we did!), of seared scallop, generous whole langoustine and a seafood-filled puff pastry round topped with tiny black pearls of caviar were served in the most delicious cream sauce made with white truffle, crab, shrimp and thyme. Several diners were seen taking pictures of this dish (and a few others)! Every bite was as delicious as this dish looked.
The wines: 1990 Michelot Meursault Genevrieres--rich, sweet, not-too mature nose with soft, ripe fruit that wakes and fills the palate. Spun sugar flavors. Delicious. Its contributor commented that she preferred this wine with the food.
Mystery wine: we like a challenge! Guessing Alsace, factoring out riesling and leaning toward gewürztraminer. This wine is as smooth as the finest silk and just as luxurious, from the nose to the palate throughout the long finish. Complex layers of bright, lush fruit fill the mouth. Descriptors from one end of the table: apricot, honey, creamy, orange. Velvety mouth feel. The contributor presents the bottle with a final chance to guess and steers us to the right grape, at least—it’s pinot gris! This1996 Alsace “tokay” from a single vineyard--Rangen de Thann--could come from no other than Zind-Humbrecht. What a wonderful treat.
Next the Foie Gras de Chef, Frances' specialty. Richly exquisite, as always, tonight it is seared to perfection and served with a caramelized shallot and caramelized pear in a dark, rich reduction sprinkled with currants and garnished with a mache and fava bean salad. Although one member is not a foie gras fan, the rest of us offered immediately to help her with her dish. What are friends for?
The wines with this dish: a rarely experienced 1997 Domain Larredya Jurancon. Only Frannie’s sommelier could have come up with this perfect match! This wine had a sweet earthiness to it that was a perfect marriage with the dish. Truly a wonderful pairing!
1998 Trimbach Pinot Gris. Heart and soul went into researching this selection, which was served on the colder side and was refreshing. We had varying opinions at my end of the table: from nice summer picnic wine to “it has more depth than that.” A little lemon chiffon going on – I enjoyed it.
Our next course is the stuff dreams are made of. Woodcock, moist white meat with perfectly crisped skin, accompanied by a “just right” spare serving of the creamiest risotto with wild mushrooms, surrounded by serious blueberry sauce with a basil-infused outer ring. A few flashbulbs greeted these plates too; we couldn’t help it. I had to take a bite first, then remembered to snap the photo.
A bottle of 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape from the Domaine du Pegau, decanted 1+ hours earlier, was served and showed a serious, pepper nose that followed through to the palate. Despite decanting, this wine remained huge and is not for the faint of heart. A powerful wine.
Upon first pouring, the 1997 Selby Syrah presented a bacon nose. Yep, bacon. But that soon blew off to reveal jammy, dark fruit layers. It garners a “smiley face” rating from Wendy (her highest) and, most importantly, Chef Frances LOVES it. Since the wine was chosen specifically for this dish, the contributor was quite pleased.
Next we have delicate veal tenderloin, served with a most incredible goat cheese soufflé. Chef Frances kindly offered to share the recipe when we raved at the end of the meal. A cognac, mustard, truffle sauce had a (nutmeg?) spicy-sweet flavor and creamy texture. Got to love these sauces; they are “finger licking good” (an old French expression).
Two very different wines were served with this course:
A 1997 Cline Syrah, a “Rhone Ranger”, was accurately described as an “800 pound gorilla.” Loved the rich color and deeply spicy nose. Earth and smoke and oak. Loads of tannin. Long finish with vanilla overtone. One diner describes this as “a voluptuous brunette running through fields of black cherry.”
On the lighter side was a 1999 Saumur Champigny. Delicate and light, this wine is made to be consumed young. A shy nose reveals floral nuances of rose petals and violets in a subtle blend with cherries. A pleasant and surprisingly lengthy finish. Chalk up another one for Moore Bros.!
Lovely platters of cheeses, bread and fruit are passed and a 1999 Cascina Castle’t Moscato d’Asti is served. This wine, made by Maria Borio, is pleasant and light with a delicate frizzante. Sweet, bright fruit. Go girl!
Dessert, always a treat at Birchrunville (tonight being no exception!), is prepared by the stealth pastry chef--Mrs. Trzeciak! Our hostess’ wish is granted: a petite, round brownie, delicately laced with nuts, appears, topped with a quenelle of chocolate cookie vanilla bean ice cream. Again the cameras come out to capture a palate of mango and red-berry sauce criss-crossed with dark chocolate strips. One member comments, “even though it looked like a little, it tasted like A LOT!”
Dessert was served with a 1995 Quaddy Elysium Black Muscat. Beautiful orange color, a rich, sweet jewel in the glass. The wine matched perfectly with the chocolate dessert.
Many thanks to all who participated; it was a wonderful evening! And if you are curious about what those guys in the corner were drinking. . .Arthur Johnson's website tells all!
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